January 28, 2004

Chippendale Swatch and Ad Nauseum Commentary

My swatch isn't as large as I'd like it (row-wise) thanks to my new addiction to Buffy the Vampire Slayer (gee thanks, Steve and Elka) but I've almost concluded one repeat.

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I'd love to hear input and comments. This will become another free pattern eventually.

I wanted to experiment with the background coloring by "overlapping" the colors. That is, switch to the new color for one row and then knit one row of the former color before continuing with the new color. I was hoping to create a sort of Regency stripe effect. You can see this in the lower half of the swatch. I'm not certain that this is entirely flattering to the design, but at this point I'm too close to it to judge accurately.

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The outer side motifs (set reflectively) were inspired by the side of a small curio shelf that I have in one of the bathrooms. I really like the way it appears in stitches.

curio.jpg

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The four narrowest motifs are peeries from Sheila McGregor's Traditional Knitting, set sideways, and reflectively around each Chippendale.

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The 48-row pattern that is repeated twice is the originally inspired Chippendale motif. I started out with something quite similar to the carved backs of the Chippendale chairs, but of course had to tweak in order to get something that would look right in knitting. I am very pleased with the result.

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The central panel has been the bane of the whole process.

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I started out by drawing a fair approximation of the carving on the sides of the table. In theory and in my sample (the same two colors throughout) picture, this looked great.

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In fact, I was reminded of the center of Henry VIII's doublet in one of the famous pictures, and wondered why Alice Starmore didn't use something like that in her design. But when I drew the design out in the colorway, it was obvious that this would be all wrong. The strong horizontal bars repeated every 4 rows looked awful when combined with the color variations that were needed by the large motifs. This was the biggest lesson I learned through this process. Not only is a strong diagonal good for stitch formation, but also for color progression.

Frustrated by that failure, I thought (in the middle of the night when I was supposed to be sleeping, of course) about a celtic knot pattern that I had drawn out last year. The next morning I went to work with it. It was a good size for the center, and looked great, but didn't exactly coordinate with Chippendale in style. I ended up altering it to produce the final design. You can see in the lower portion of the swatch, the long "S" shape is a little off. I sought to correct that in the upper portion.

When this becomes a sweater, I hope to have at least four colorways from which to choose. The bottom will probably be hemmed or double-knit rather than ribbed. I envision a small turned-back collar (think very low turtleneck) and turned-back cuffs.

This has been a real learning experience and very rewarding. But I couldn't have done it (not that it's finished!) without the inspiration and comments via knitting groups and soirees and ASOF, especially from Janine Bajus, Katie Swanson, Felina Schwarz, and Sandy Blue. No matter how much you know or think you know, there's always something else out there that provides an essential key. Thank you, thank you, thank you.

Posted by Sheila at January 28, 2004 09:06 AM | TrackBack
Comments

Incredibly beautiful. Even though you've documented your process, I still don't know how you did this.

Posted by: Lisa on January 28, 2004 10:28 AM

Oh Sheila. I really like it. I'm especially fond of the side and centre panels. I'm reserving my adoration for the other panels until I see them repeated. I love the "lattice-like" elements. I'm not sure about the regency stripe look. It doesn't show up well on my monitor. I like it with the pinks, but the blues are harder to pick out.
Gorgeous.


Posted by: Stephanie on January 28, 2004 10:59 AM

Beautiful, Sheila! I especially enjoyed reading about where your design inspirations came from. Really interesting!

Posted by: Ryan on January 28, 2004 11:37 AM

Sheila, your swatch is beautiful! The motifs work together very nicely, and knowing what inspired them makes the design even more interesting. The blues and pinks are very pretty together. I can't wait until you've finished the whole sweater. AS move over!

Posted by: judy on January 28, 2004 11:48 AM

This is really fabulous, Sheila! I like the central panel and 48-st panels a lot, and the little geometric panels set them off very nicely. It will be interesting to see how the regency stripe thing looks, however, my first reaction is that it will look too "stripey" and you would be better off shading across the dark blue to black tones. Maybe if you keep the reds to fairly dark, deep tones it will be better?

I think you should submit this to Jamieson's for publication, frankly. Send them a swatch and a sketch of the garment.

Bring to Feral Knitters next week, OK? I am going to try to make it this time.

Posted by: Katie on January 28, 2004 12:08 PM

Wow, thanks guys! I guess I've been working on it so much it doesn't seem so fabulous, the case of too much of one thing gets a bit jaded? You've lifted my spirits.

Katie, I think you're right about the pinks needing to be a bit darker. I like the darker pink I'm currently using (raspberry) but the tip of the Chippendale motif becomes a much more heathered light green and I think it is in danger of disappearing too much against the lightest color. I'm so glad you're going to be at the next Feral meeting!

The biggest problem I have right now? The swatch is pretty wide at 24" unless I make those side geometric panels centered on the side seams, and even then it might be too wide at 22" for those who need smaller sweaters. I also hate to hide those geometrics, they're the spicey touches I think are necessary. Something might have to go, I can't imagine this being a manly-man's sweater!

Posted by: Sheila on January 28, 2004 12:20 PM

Sheila, what can I say? Wonderful! My monitor doesn't display colors accurately, so I'll have to wait to see this in person, but I sure like what I've seen so far. I'm especially taken by the little panel derived from your bathroom whatnot!

And thank you for sharing the design process on your blog. Lovely, personal sweaters can be made by anyone--so long as they don't assume that the process is straightforward! You sharing your successess and "failures" (hardly failures, really, just not as pleasing to you features) can encourage others to forge ahead.

I am so glad that we have our Fair Isle knitters group to provide encouragement!
Janine

Posted by: Janine on January 28, 2004 12:44 PM

OOOOOOOO! Pretty! I'd knit that in a new york minute! And I love the colorway too, that shimmery sky blue effect. I think I'd knit it for myself with a circumference of 44 inches, that would be about what my Catriona cardigan is, and my St Michaels which is lovely and comfy. I agree with Katie, this belongs in Jamiesons book #4.

I'd love to know what yarn colors you used in your swatch.

Did you consider one of those gawdawful to knit but pretty to look at checked garter stitch bottom edges?

Posted by: CarolineF on January 28, 2004 12:52 PM

Janine, the world just can't have enough fair isle designs. I agree, lots of folks can do this if they want to, with a certain degree of determination and help from their friends (and love of fair-isle knitting of course!).

Caroline, I did consider a checkered border, I do love them too. Perhaps it could be an optional "ribbing". But I've heard so many women say they wish that sweaters didn't have that pulling in of the ribbing or welt at the bottom, because to a larger figure (not yours!) that is unflattering and sometimes uncomfortable. I'll send the colors to you via email.

Posted by: Sheila on January 28, 2004 01:37 PM

Sheila, that swatch really is gorgeous. Not too many patterns out there have the lovely curves you derived from the Chippendale. I'm sure I'll have to stash the yarn for this sweater when it's ready also!

Posted by: Linda on January 28, 2004 01:45 PM

Wow... I just recently got a book on Fair Isle knitting and am trying to pick out colors for the Bear Isle cardigan off .. hmmm beyond the hebrides? I think that's the website. At any rate, I'm having trouble enough and that already HAS a pattern, I'm just picking colors. I can't begin to imagine trying to pick patterns AND colors yet.

I love the inspirations and the curves and .. well, I can't pick out any part of it I don't think is astounding! And you're going to have it up for *free*? I can't imagine what you think would qualify as something to charge for! *swoon*

Posted by: Sammi on January 28, 2004 02:45 PM

Inspiring. I actually just picked out the yarn for my very first fair isle vest today. Am a bit nervous about it. Not the knitting itself, more the steeking once its done! I can't wait to read more on what you are doing.

Posted by: Morgan on January 28, 2004 10:00 PM

Lovely work. I've got a pile of shetland here that I've been wanting to play with.

Posted by: Carolyn on January 29, 2004 01:42 AM

There is only one word for your design - WOW!!!
To so perfectly combine geometric and serpentine patterns is a real achievement and the colours just sing. I'm left with the overwhelming feeling of 'me want, now!'
It's great to see a fairisle with vertical rather than horizontal accents. To that end, the only thing I would agree with is the slightly darker pinks rather than the regency stripe. A hem rather than ribbing will keep this design long and lean. Perfect. And we could get this for free? WOW all over again!

Posted by: Naomi on January 29, 2004 02:12 AM

sheila it is unbelievable! what gauge are you getting? the checkerboard edging is what i used on my blanket, it lays perfectly flat, unlike regular ribbing.

Posted by: vanessa on January 29, 2004 03:22 AM

So gorgeous. I am stunned by the beauty of your work.

Posted by: Kathleen on January 29, 2004 06:39 AM

It is gorgeous. You said free pattern, surely I heard that wrong. I would gladly pay for the pattern!

Posted by: Chris on January 29, 2004 06:56 AM

sheila it's gorgeous - i would pay for it too!! i think the 1 row new color, 1 row old before moving to new is a great idea, i'm working on koigu keepsake shawl which does the same thing and makes the color changes really subtle - the eye can tell that it's changed but can't tell where. rock on!!!! can't wait to see MORE!! :)

Posted by: carolyn on January 29, 2004 07:01 AM

Simply beautiful - takes my breath away! And so ingenious.

Posted by: Carol on January 29, 2004 07:11 AM

Well, there's nothing left for me to say. Truly beautiful though. I loved seeing your sources. I'm looking forward to seeing how the whole concept evolves. It's great!

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