September 28, 2005
Eh, Just More of the Same
(Picture-heavy post, Dear Readers!)
Everybody settled? Everybody have popcorn? Everybody have the dog, cat or significant other of choice in their laps? Everybody have their knitting? Good. Off we go, then.
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A confession: All my life, I’ve thought of the Grand Canyon as, well, tacky, overrated, Disneyland-ish, Las Vegas without the neon. I have no idea why I thought this (most likely it had something to do with my mother and her over-inflated idea of what was “done” and “just not done.” Don’t ask.), but suffice it to say I have been humbled. In a big way.
Here is a picture of our first exposure to the Grand Canyon, a photo taken from the airplane. Keep in mind that we hadn’t started to descend yet and that this photo was taken from 32,000 feet, the height from which entire towns just look like tiny smudges. You do the math.
Since I was sitting in the aisle seat, in order to see the Canyon, I had to stand up, lean waaaaaay over, squash myself into TMK’s personal space and scroonch my face cheek-to-cheek with hers to peer out the eensy-weensy airplane window. Then began the squeals and the uncontrolled and slightly-too-loud exclamations of: “Look over…” “Did you see…?” “Oh, my goodness!” “I never imagined…!”
When I had thoroughly covered the window with greezy nose prints, I straightened up, and looked up and down the plane in an attempt to enjoy vicariously the excitement of the other passengers who were surely all standing up and squashing and scroonching and exclaiming the same as I was...only to discover that we were the only ones making such spectacles of ourselves. Whut the...?! I didn't know whether to feel embarrassed about being so naïve and uber-touristy or sad for the 138 people too caught up in the latest email, latest Top 40 rap hit, or thoughts of joining the Mile High Club to realize what was playing out beneath them. Sure, a lot of the people on the plane were jaded business travelers who’d flown over the Canyon umpteen times, but surely at least one other person on the plane was a Grand Canyon virgin like us and willing to squash and scroonch and exclaim and play the fool? Um, apparently not.
Exeunt Saturday and Sunday. Monday, after we had recovered from Cuzzin Tom’s Nature and Pictograph Petroglyph Ancient Drawings Tour, we drove the 2.5 hours to The Big Hole in the Ground, climbed into this helicopter…
…and put our fate in the hands of a pilot who couldn’t have been more than eight years old. Okay, maybe twelve. But certainly prepubescent, and certainly had never had a reason to buy a razor.
(While I will declare unequivocally that a helicopter is the only way to see the Grand Canyon, and while I will give the helicopter experience an A+++ and declare it worth every penny, we could have done without the hokey music piped in through our headphones. Think about it. The Grand Canyon is spread out before you in all of its five-million-year-old grandeur…and you’re listening to the theme song from “Bonanza.” Or “The Marlboro Man." Or “High Noon.” Or “Gunsmoke.” It made me want to bounce along like a cowboy on a trotting horse, and say "Hyuk, hyuk, hyuk" with a western drawl. Not appropriate behavior.)
During our flight, for effect, the pilot flew somewhat close to the ground, and then shot straight out over one of the deeper parts of the Canyon. And that, dear friends, is when I realized I was looking into the face of God. Truly. There is no other way to describe it. Amazing. I had no clue. I had no idea. “Tacky?” ”Overrated?” “Disneyland-ish?” “Las Vegas without the neon?” Fie on me! I should be pelted with piñon nuts and poked with saguaro thorns. (Oh, wait, I forgot; there are no more saguaros. They're extinct.)
A photo of a frumpy me which belies the excitement I was actually feeling, because I lerv flying in helicopters, and I knew we had a huge adventure ahead of us:
TMK literally on the verge of having a dream come true:
Just before The Big Moment:
The Big Hole:
The confluence of the Colorado (brown from all the recent rains) and what I think is Blue Angel Creek:
After the helicopter flight, we headed in towards Grand Canyon Village. About half way there, we pulled over along the road, parked and got out, since that seemed to be what everyone else was doing. Clueless yet again, I walked a few feet through some scrubby piñon trees, crossed a sidewalk, and screeched to a halt with, I’m sure, a gasp, as I realized I had reached The End of the World. I had no idea you could just walk right to the edge of the Canyon, but there it was, a mile straight down, and 18 miles across, right at my feet. With no railings. At this point, I believe TMK actually exclaimed, “Zoinks!” I kid you not.
Here, proof that I have no fear of heights:
TMK took the photo. Notice how far away she was standing. She did become braver later on.
The Squirrel Who Lives at the End of the World, warming his belly on the Low Stone Wall at the End of the World. (The squirrels were fearless, mostly because they received endless treats from the tourists, despite the many signs that admonished, “Do Not Feed the Squirrels Who Live at the End of the World.”)
More photos of the End of the World.
And my most favorite photograph of all, taken by TMK herself...
On Sunday, about an hour into the hike with the Robed One, I think he realized that the high altitude and exercise were getting the better of his two out-of-shape companions because he stopped, flapped his hand at the stupendous flora, fauna and geological formations laid out before us, and let loose with the greatest understatement of the trip: “Eh, just more of the same.” This instantly became our motto for the trip, which is why after we had walked along the edge of the Canyon for a while, and needed an excuse to turn our backs on all of its magnificence and go find some much-needed lunch, we both flapped our hands at the parts of the Canyon we could never hope to reach and said, “Eh, just more of the same.”
And so ended Part One of our Day of Dreams.
On Friday, white buffaloes, Jerome, the Verde Canyon train and more of Mongol LEE!
ya got me. I have previously thought "why would you want to spend the time and money to go see a big hole in the ground?" Your pics have humbled me. I'll have to eat my words (yet again fer gawd's sake).
Posted by: Lisa in Oregon on September 28, 2005 10:59 AMAaaaah - sky and space and vistas. That's right, that is one thing I love about the desert. Living in Seattle where everything is built up to the edge of the sidwalk (lovely as it is)I forget about open air. Whenever I return to AZ I spend the first couple of days expecting a piano to drop on my head - it's beautiful and you can really feel that sense of open space. Tonight we will toast you both with verde sauce!
Posted by: Elaine on September 28, 2005 11:04 AMlast I saw the great big hole in the ground I was 12 or maybe 13. My sister had sunstroke. And my not so nice father kept saying she was a sissy to act sick (it was 123 degrees out). I have never been back, but I have always thought it would be nice to see with some more rather quiet contemplation and less jerkishness. Perhaps that is a palce Sue and I should think about seeing together. thanks for the pics.. more, I say, MORE!
Posted by: anj on September 28, 2005 11:05 AMLisa and Anj, my words and the pictures don't do it justice. I have become a reformed Canyonite, sort of like a reformed smoker, only worse. Now, I say to everyone who will listen, "Go, go, go!" There are so many different ways to see the Canyon (tour, mule, hike, from the edge, from the bottom, from a helicopter) that it's nice to be able to customize your own trip and see as little or as much of it as you want to, the way you want to (especially as an adult, by yourself or with a companion, and without a sick sister or unsympathetic father!).
Elaine, you have no idea how much I appreciate that you, as an ex-Arizonan, are not rolling your eyes at, as I said, uber-touristy me! And, of course, WE are certainly glad that you live in Seattle now and not there!
Posted by: Ryan on September 28, 2005 11:10 AMI dig it!!
Posted by: marylee on September 28, 2005 11:52 AMwhoa. color me gobsmacked.
Your pictures are amazing! The Grand Canyon has been on my list of must-sees for a while, but it always seems to get demoted in favor of 'flashier' destinations. A mistake on my part - and I thank you for showing me my error! AMAZING!
(really? No... railing... at all? eeep. *cowers far from the edge*)
Posted by: Miri on September 28, 2005 12:12 PMLooooonnnng time reader, first time poster:
I know. I had the exact same attitude, until last summer. Now I proselytize about the big hole, just like you, Ryan. I even looked up from my knitting! It is one of the few places I have been that cannot be described. Not by words, not by pictures. It is too huge, too overwhelming. One simply must go.
Posted by: Karen on September 28, 2005 12:20 PMWhat, no sock over the edge? Were you looking at the view or something?
Posted by: julia fc on September 28, 2005 12:33 PMMiri: No. Railing. At. All. Actually, there was one point, near the Low Stone Wall at the End of the World, where there was some railing but that spot encompassed maybe .00000000000001% of the entire canyon. And, really, that's how it should be. And, yes, people have fallen over the edge and died but, curiously, they have all had Y chromosomes. (That's BS actually; I don't know that for sure.)
Karen, so glad you posted. I know it's melodramatic to say things like "I looked into the face of God," but I know that you, at least, really, really Get It!
Julia, the sad truth is I did very little knitting on the trip, just some work on a Regia sock, pictures of which I'll post on Friday.
Hi, Marylee!!!
Posted by: Ryan on September 28, 2005 12:52 PMAmazing place isn't it? I've rafted through it, hiked along it and down it as far as Indian Garden for an overnight camping trip. I'm looking forward to going back. Haven't been to the North Rim yet.
Posted by: Kat on September 28, 2005 01:19 PMAin't it great? When I agreed to drive cross-country to move a friend my two requirements were: 1)see the Grand Canyon and 2)see Carlsbad Caverns. Both were an 11 on the Impressive Gaia scale.
And tell TMK that anybody who says "Zoinks!" (male or female) is HOT!
Posted by: martha in mobile on September 28, 2005 01:22 PMWonderful, just wonderful.
Posted by: Jane on September 28, 2005 01:29 PMI am living vicariously through you!! Maybe one day I'll make it to the Canyon.
Posted by: Cheryl on September 28, 2005 01:37 PMI had to come out of lurker mode to comment:
I love that part of the world- thanks for the pictures Ryan!
You want to feel insignificant? Go to Monument Valley (You know where all the old westerns were shot, only its cooler then you ever imagined.) My parents took me when I was 9- It is AWESOME. We camped on a mesa overlooking most of the valley and that afternoon a thunderstorm rolled through that was the most magnificant, terrifying, humongo, thunderstorm I have ever experienced. The thunder was so strong it actually reverberated throughout the valley and the mesa shook.
Also Canyon de Chelly on the NM/Arizona border has the best Anasazi ruins and "ancient drawings" up on the walls.
Love it! More pictures!
I always keep up with your blog and was delighted when you posted about this trip. I'm planning my first foray to the GC the first week of November and am thrilled to be going. We've booked the slow river tour from Glen Canyon, but haven't decided on anything else yet. Your photos look amazing.
Posted by: Mary Ann on September 28, 2005 02:24 PMCan I just say my jaw was all on the floor when I saw those pictures that TMK took. I so desperately want to go now and experience it for myself. I know I would not be the brave one to stand next to the edge of the canyon!! I feel ya TMK!! ;) I can't wait to see more pictures!!
Posted by: Courtney the Giggler on September 28, 2005 03:46 PMGorgeous pictures! What wonderful scenery!
Posted by: Sheri on September 28, 2005 04:26 PMIt is truly the most awe inspiring spot on the face of the earth. I did the helicopter ride over the edge, too. You almost faint when the earth drops away from under you like that. I must have 3,000 pictures. I hiked along the edge and stopped at every sightseeing spot there was. The rest of Arizona was pretty amazing, too. The boat ride up the river from Glenn Canyon was beautiful and relaxing,too. I would love to spend at least a month around the canyon. You'll definately look up from your knitting.
Posted by: Joan in Reno on September 28, 2005 04:30 PMI have to go lie down. Your pictures are bloody gorgeous, but for some reason I just got really nauseous looking at how high you were with no railing. Space Needle observation deck is bad enough for me...I'm floored by your bravery, Ryan....
Posted by: Libby on September 28, 2005 04:33 PM(Maybe 30,000 pictures!)
Posted by: Joan in Reno on September 28, 2005 04:48 PMI've only ever flown over the Grand Canyon in an airplane and when we were told "If you look out of right side of hte airplane we'll be flying over the Grand Canyon" I dutifully glommed my face agin the window and peered out. And saw a canyon down below and went..."Is that the Grand Canyon?" Seemed sorta small and then I saw another canyon and went "OK, well, is *this* the one?" And then we were flying over this honkin' Vast Chasm In the Earth, at which point I went "AHA! WOW. THAT'S the Grand Canyon." And I was content. But seeing your pictures I think I need to go visit it at ground level.
Posted by: Melanie on September 28, 2005 04:56 PMPersonally, as a fan of the squirrel in Ice Age, the "Squirrel Who Lives at the End of the World" is my favourite. Although you at the edge, there...that's pretty damned impressive too ;-)
Posted by: Lee Ann on September 28, 2005 06:17 PMThe Grand Canyon has been on my "must-see" list for what seems like forever. Your post just bumped it up to the Top Five.
In the morning, I'm going to show your pictures to my 9 year old daughter. She's reading Marguerite Henry's "Brighty of the Grand Canyon" at the moment, and will love to see where Brighty lived.
Posted by: Ruth on September 28, 2005 08:48 PMThanks for sharing these stunning and wonderful pictures with us..i think your very brave to venture so close to the edge Ryan...i'd be where TMK was or maybe even further back!LOL btw i wouldn't even dare get in the helicopter!!!!
Posted by: Diane on September 29, 2005 07:29 AMEND of the world or EGDE of the world?
Thank you for the fly over..awesome awesome awesome. I also LOVE the pic of the canyon and the old knarled tree..
Posted by: PJ on September 29, 2005 10:38 AMGlad you saw the glory.See it under a blanket of snow some time. Had to pass on a job there this winter to earn moremoney here in Phoenix, cried into my knitting. The canyon is the ultimate. vicki
Posted by: vicki on September 29, 2005 10:53 AMRyan, now that you and TMK have experienced the South Rim, take a 4-wheel drive trip on the North Rim. The hike to the floor of the canyon is only a mile in some places (and a very easy hike), and is awesome!
For those who haven't been to the Grand Canyon: GO! It is one of the most amazing places ever!
Posted by: Sharon on September 29, 2005 01:59 PMTacky! That's so funny.
After seeing TMK clinging to the seats at Safeco Field, I am SHOCKED she would go up in a helicopter and go anywhere NEAR the Grand Canyon. So glad you all didn't get spontaneously sucked over the edge. Beautiful pictures. The squirrels there are shaped differently than our squirrels here, aren't they?
Posted by: Patti on September 30, 2005 08:41 AM